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We’ve eliminated from contention the great old-school red-sauce joints already dutifully ranked here, to name but a few.

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21st St.; 212-777-2410 Maialino is on this list not just for Nick Anderer’s righteous Roman cooking, but for Danny Meyer’s knack for creating the type of inviting all-day space that can give an interloper a bad case of neighborhood envy.

Regional pasta classics like bombolotti alla gricia make for a lovely solo lunch in the laid-back front room, while the trattoria proper is a perfect place for a gang of chowhounds to tackle a celebratory platter of roast suckling pig.

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True, the pasta dishes at Osteria Morini may not be quite as accomplished as they are at White’s uptown seafood shrine, Marea, or as luxed up with fancy ingredients, but they’re close. Third Ave.; 212-228-4923 Founding chef Sara Jenkins spends most of her time in her native Maine now, but her guiding presence is felt in the brash anchovy punch of the wilted escarole salad; the compulsively edible, spicy crumbled-lamb sausage with mustard greens that dresses her signature pasta; and in simple, hearty entrées like a Hampshire pork chop with cannellini and cavolo nero.